A socially-minded focus on the environment and sustainability will see the use of natural materials, such as woods and metals, become a popular choice for furniture. Alongside this try using an earthy colour palette mixing greens, browns and beiges to create a calming atmosphere.

In 2010 Grey will emerge as a staple colour to compliment any room of your house. When teamed with vibrant colours such as purple or yellow it creates an unexpected and stylish effect. Identified by colour forecasting specialists Pantone as a must have colour for this year, Turquoise can be used in many different ways. Try it as an accent colour to brighten up a room filled with muted beiges and natural tones, or use it alongside other shades of blue to achieve a cool and tranquil space.

Texture will be a trend that affects all aspects of interior decor.  Look out for furniture items such as rugs, carpets and cushions that have interesting textures or have been developed from unusual materials. This trend can be extended to your choice of paints and wallpaper as well. Try combining matte and gloss paint colours to achieve a textured effect, or use a textured wallpaper to create a cosy atmosphere.

Whether it’s a unique piece of furniture or just a souvenir from your last holiday, inject a bit of personality into your home this year. Items that display evidence of craftsmanship or individuality can make your home feel more personal and welcoming. Look out for sustainable ethical items that will last you a lifetime.

Finally, 2010 will see the wallpapered ceiling emerge as a forward-thinking take on the wallpapered accent wall.  A wallpaper that compliments the colour scheme of your room can create even more of a design statement when applied to the ceiling. It can work to draw attention to architectural features and unusually shaped rooms. It can work equally as well to add a touch of eccentricity to a more conventional four-walled room.

If using wallpaper throughout the room, try to choose different patterns for the walls and ceiling and make sure they are broken up by other elements such as wooden panelling. This will avoid making the room feel boxed in, and will make sure your home is on trend for 2010.

The following questions answer some of the basic issues that crop up during wallpapering and painting. Feel free to add your questions or thoughts in the comments.

Q) What is the best method to remove wallpaper?
A) There are a lot of different ways to successfully remove wallpaper from a wall, but some of them can be very tedious. Heat can often be the best free solution to remove wallpaper. Covering an area of the wallpaper with very hot water and leaving it to soak in for couples of minutes, then scraping it off becomes much easier. For quicker results, you may find that a wallpaper steamer helps dampen the wallpaper a lot easier, but this obviously comes at an extra cost.

Q) Can you paint directly over wallpaper?
A) In a word, yes. It is generally best to strip the wall if you are planning on painting it, but you are able to paint directly onto it with most wallpaper. You need to make sure you have an even surface, so this means pasting down any loose bits of wallpaper, and filling any holes that may be in the wall. If the wallpaper is shiny you may want to test a small area first to see how the paint reacts to the surface and use a primer if necessary.

Q) How do you prepare a wall for wallpapering?
A) This answer is best broken down into the following steps:

1. Make it smooth – Fill any holes or bumps in the wall to ensure you have a smooth wallpapering surface. If your wall is in really bad shape, you may need to have it plastered before applying any wallpaper.
2. Lining paper – Although not a necessity, lining paper will help cover a multitude of imperfections in a wall – a common issue in older properties. Lining paper should be cross-hung (applied horizontally) if you’re going to hang a wallpaper on it (this will prevent the glue from the top wallpaper lifting the joints of the lining paper), or hung vertically (with completely flush joints) if you’re going to paint it.
3. Apply the wallpaper!

Hi, I’m Jane Cumberbatch. Welcome to my new series ‘Make and Do’. In this film, I’m going to show you how to re-vamp a junk table.

Now I’m somebody who’s always on the lookout for old pieces of furniture from skips and in junk shops, and whenever I go looking for a piece, I try and find something that has some interesting depth of detail. Even if it’s in a colour I don’t like, or a wood I don’t like – I’ll still buy it because you can do amazing things with a lick of paint and I’m going to show you how.

Firstly, materials that you need are paint brushes, and I always use a selection, so that you can use the thinner ones for attending to the more intricate bits of the piece, and a wider one for bigger surfaces.

And then you need sandpaper, and then the paint itself.

I’m using white undercoat, and then the top coat is in the colour of my choice, which is a lovely pale bluey green, and I’m using emulsion.

Now, a lot of people say you can’t paint wood with emulsion, but I say no, because if you want a nice matt texture, emulsion is really one of the best textures to use.

Now before you start, the most important thing is to wash and clean the object that you want painted, because if you don’t you’ll find that the paint won’t stick, and you’ll find yourself in a lot of trouble.

I think that the best thing is just to use some detergent and water and a sponge, and to really give everything a good clean, because old pieces of furniture will have years of accumulated grease and cake crumbs perhaps. And it’s really important that you do the cleaning.

After you’ve washed the table or your piece of furniture, the next thing is to sand it down so that it has a good key for the paint, because the paint actually needs to bond to the surface.

You work over the area, up and down, sanding. So you continue until every little bit of the object is finished.

Right, I’ve finished the sanding, and you now have to give this a wash.

Now the first thing is to put on a coat of undercoat, and I’m using waterbased, because it is quick to dry and I like the matt texture, and it’s quite easy to find a universal undercoat at the hardware merchants or your local DIY superstore.

You need to keep a good gentle backwards and forwards motion so that you get a nice smooth effect.

Once you finish with the undercoat, you’ve got to go and wash your brushes. Waterbased paints mean that you can wash them in water, which is a lot better than having to put them in turps or one of the cleaners for oil based paints.

Let the piece of furniture dry for between 1 or 2 hours depending on your local conditions.

Now this is the nice bit, we’re putting on the top coat. This is where you begin to see how paint can transform even the, well I wouldn’t say this table was ugly, but I don’t think it would look very pretty in it’s beaten up state when it was on the skip.

Anyway, you apply the paint in a nice sweeping backwards and forwards motion. Good quality paint doesn’t need so many coats, and you might find that if the piece that you’re painting is very dark, you might need more than one coat, because you need more paint to cover up the dark colour beneath.

What I have learnt by bitter experience, is do not overload the brush. It’s really tempting to slop on the paint to get quick coverage, but you do this at your peril, because it simply means your paint falls off onto the ground or on your shoes or in the place that it shouldn’t be.

You shouldn’t worry about making your piece of painted furniture absolutely perfect. The idea is to actually have a few imperfections, because part of the charm of painting things yourself is that you can make it look more personal by painting it in this way.

Well, here I am, and here’s the finished junk table, and it doesn’t look junky any more. I think it looks really pretty, and it’s the sort of thing that you can use by the sofa or put it by the bath to put soaps on, or even put it by the bed.

I hope that you will have been inspired to do something similar with a junk shop or skip find.

We are delighted to welcome Jane Cumberbatch to the Little Greene blog.

An interior designer with a number of best-selling books to her name, including Pure Style and Decorating Easy, Jane is an authority on simple, accessible, natural styling and what she calls “A blueprint for 21st century living”.

Jane’s website – Pure Style Online – is a must for inspiring ideas and budding stylists, with a wealth of knowledge, tips and over two decades worth of first-hand design experience.

Jane will be passing on a few trade secrets along with some advice on how to use colours in your home – look out for more posts in the coming weeks and months…

For a Moroccan inspired rooms try hot, vibrant oranges and reds combined with shades of blue and aquamarine.  Moroccans take inspiration from the colours their geography provides; the desert’s golden sands, the hot baked mountain rocks and the sparkling colours of the sea.  Shades including ‘Terre di Sienna‘ and ‘Heat‘ are great for creating the essence of Moroccan landscapes and can be accentuated with shades of blue-green such as ‘Canton‘ and ‘Marine Blue‘.  The dark blue shades can be used as a dramatic backdrop for the entire room or used to add depth to specific areas.  Complete the look with brightly coloured fabrics, jewelled accessories and textured rugs and throws.

For a French country style look, the result is rustic and welcoming.  Decorating colours are inspired by sunshine, fertile fields and the countryside.  Try yellows and reds as well as all shades of green including ‘Garden‘, ‘Sage Green‘ and ‘Woodland‘ to recreate the essence of grass and rolling hills.  The finished look should invoke a warm, casual, old-world feel.

If the delights of the French countryside or the colours of the Moroccan bazaars don’t tempt you, why not opt for a Hispanic Hacienda theme.  Spanish decor focuses on earthy tones coupled with rich reds and terracotta hues.  To create the look try ‘Bronze Red‘ and ‘Tuscany‘ on the walls and compliment this with furnishings in warm, earthy tones.  Fabric tapestries and dark wood are an effective way of completing the look.

When you’re choosing a colour to paint your radiator, bear in mind the surroundings. Although whites or off-whites will be the obvious choices, with oil-based paints these colours will go yellow because of the temperature of the radiator. You can reduce the prominence of a radiator by using the same colour as the walls or make a statement but using a contrasting or complimentary colour.

It is ideal if you can paint your radiator before it is plumbed in – or if you can take it down. This allows you to get better coverage on the hard to reach areas – but be careful if it’s already plumbed in – you’ll need to drain the radiator first – so it might not be the best option if you’ve got a new carpet!

If you’re painting your radiator in situ, then make sure you keep it turned off until the paint has dried and ensure the room is well ventilated. Cover the surrounding area, and tape any areas which meets a surface you don’t intend to paint over.

Use a piece of medium grade sandpaper to smooth the surface. If you have thick, unsightly paint or drip marks from a previous paint job, you may need to use a paint stripper to get a smooth finish.

Clean the radiator to get rid of any dirt, dust and fluff – anything like this trapped under a new coat of paint will be very noticeable, so it’s worth the effort.

If your radiator has not been painted before, or has chips or wear which reveal the metal work underneath, you will need to use an oil based undercoat or metal primer. A standard Undercoat or Primer won’t prevent cracking or discolouration but an anti-corrosive primer like The Little Greene Universal Primer/Undercoat applied to bare metal areas will help to prevent rust re-occurring – this is particularly important with a radiator because it will get very hot in use.

If you can see any rust, treat it before you apply the primer. If there is only slight surface rust, you should be able to get rid of it with sandpaper, but if there is a lot of rust visible, you would be better replacing the radiator.

Stir your paint well before you start.

To paint the radiator, a standard paint brush will do the job, but you might find it easier with a raditor paint brush – this is angled so you can get into awkward places.

You have a choice of paint finishes for radiators, choose based on the style of your room, whether it’s in a high moisture area like a bathroom, or if you want a particularly environmentally friendly or low VOC paint:

• Oil Based Eggshell Paint – which is a very tough and durable, low odour, paint with a low sheen finish.
• Acrylic Eggshell Paint – which is moisture and stain resistant, hard wearing, with a subtle low sheen finish.
• Oil-Based Gloss Paint – which resists weathering, cracking and flaking, and has a high gloss finish.
• Acrylic Gloss Paint – which is tough and washable with a high sheen. An environmentally friendly and hard wearing paint.
• ULTIMATT Emulsion Paint – which is environmentally friendly, and has a superb depth of colour and a flat matt finish.

Avoid painting nuts and bolts or any moving parts, or you will have problems in future.

You will usually need 2 coats over a primer for a nice finish.
Leave at least 4 hours between coats for a water based paint, or leave overnight drying for Oil based paint.

The following information and advice is given in good faith but without any guarantee as situations
and usage are outside our control.

Quick Guidance for Painters

Make sure surfaces to be painted are dry sound and free from dirt and materials which would affect
the appearances and life of the paint.
Ensure glossy surfaces are abraded to provide a suitable key for new paint.
Remove all dust and debris from the surface as this will affect the look of the finished job.
When painting metals or alkaline substrates select the correct primer for the job.
Follow the guidance on the can regarding drying times and thinners.

How to prepare a room.

1. Roll up the carpet/rugs. Make sure furniture is covered and moved to centre
of the room. Put down a dust sheet or paper on the floor around the area you are painting.
2. Loosen or remove attached equipment (wall sockets etc.) and remove all switch plates, and door and
window furniture.
3. Make sure you remove all loose paint and plaster/wallpaper.
4. When painting over wallpaper make sure all seams are properly glued
5. Rake out and fill all cracks, screw holes, seams and imperfections with proprietary filler.
6. Sand smooth any repairs to walls
7. Before painting, sand all areas lightly.
8. Remove all dust and debris from walls using a damp cloth, tack cloths or vacuum the area.

Equipment to make a professional job of decoration.

Little Greene supply a selection of the most important tools you will require including:

9-inch Roller tray and Paint Roller: Rollers larger than nine inches are heavy, unwieldy, and
inaccurate. 4-inch rollers are handy for getting inside cabinets and cupboards. Select the correct roller
type for the surface you’re painting (check the label). As a general rule, the smoother the surface
you’re painting, the shorter the roller ‘pile’ you use.

Scraper: Use the point to pick out loose paint and cracked plaster; the flat top, to scrape loose paint.
Filling Knife: for the smooth application of filler to cracks and gaps

When working on ceilings or in cramped areas, decant a little paint from the can into a small, light
container. A clean plastic food-storage container with a tight-fitting cover is ideal for emulsion paint; a
metal can is better for oil based paint.

Brushes: Select proprietary brushes for the type of paint being used. Straight-edge brushes handle all
tasks nicely. Some people find angled brushes more comfortable in tight spots; and angled brushes are
especially good for painting trim and straight edges.

A select range of essential interior and exterior decorating tools for your Little Greene
project are available on-line at www.thelittlegreene.com.

Reasons to prime the work before applying the finish coat.

1. To improve the look and performance of the finish coat.
2. To seal unpainted surfaces or to provide a more receptive surface for the finish coat.
3. To ease the transition from a dark to a light colour and to prevent stains from bleeding through the
finish coat.
4. To prepare a surface previously painted with alkyd paint for a new coat of emulsion paint.

Which primer undercoat?

Select either Little Greene Acrylic Primer Undercoat (water-based) or Universal Primer Undercoat
(oil-based) for all interior and exterior priming and sealing wallboard, concrete, brick, woodwork,
metals or plaster. Allow primer coat to dry overnight before painting. Clean up with white spirit.

How to paint a room.

1. Lay a flattened corrugated box on the floor and set out your tools and paint cans, its padded surface
will protect the floor and soak up any drips.
2. Decant some of the paint into a smaller, easy to handle container.
3. Load a 2- or 3-inch straight-edge brush. The correct way is to dip the bristles one-half to two thirds
of the way into the paint. Don’t get paint on the ferrule (the metal wrapper that holds the bristles).
Clear excess paint from one side to the brush by dragging it against the side of the container; don’t
drag both sides. Always apply the loaded side of the brush to the wall.
4. Working from the ceiling down, paint a 3-inch frame around all the edges of the room that would be
awkward to roll. Paint the corners; outline the ceiling; edge the skirting board and architraves to the
windows and doors, baseboard, light fixtures, plugs and switchplates. Painters call this ‘’cutting in’’
5. Let the paint dry. Now you are ready to use a roller to cover the large areas.
6. Slip the appropriate sleeve onto the roller cage (handle). Attach the roller extension handle.
7. Pour about an inch of paint into the deep reservoir end of the paint tray. Leave the other end of the
tray clear.
8. Dip the roller into the tray, and move it back and forth on the roller bed. The roller should be well
saturated with paint, but not dripping.
9. Once again, you will work from the ceiling down.
Roll an area about 2 feet square. Work the roller up, down, and across until you’ve covered the area
evenly. Cover the entire ceiling and wall this way, square by square.
10. If paint begins to build up on the wall at the edges of the roller, gently roll out the lines
immediately. Latex paint starts drying quickly, so don’t go back over tacky paint.
11. Watch out for “painters’ holidays” – patches where paint is too thin. If another coat is necessary,
allow the paint to dry properly before repeating.
12. Painting windows.
Try not to lay on paint too thickly, and avoid the edges where moving parts meet. Slide windows up
and down during the job to keep them from sticking shut.
13. Painting the trim. Work from ceiling to floor: picture rail first, skirting boards last. Hold brush
comfortably in your hand and take care not to overload it with paint.

Before painting skirting boards, do one final dusting. Once skirting boards are painted, close off the
room from dust, and let everything dry.

Cleaning Up

Cleaning brushes

Spirit thinned oil paints

Rinse brush thoroughly in a suitable container of White Spirit until free from paint. Press dry with
paper towels, and hang brush up to store.

Emulsion Paints

Because emulsion paint is water-based, cleanup requires only water and perhaps soap. Hold brushes
under warm running water to rinse off excess paint. Add a few drops of mild washing-up liquid if
necessary, and use a stiff brush to coax any remaining paint out of the bristles. Pat the washed brush
dry with paper towels. When possible, store brushes by hanging them.

Storing paint.

Always store paint tightly sealed in original container, out of extreme temperatures (not in the
basement or garage), and away from children.

Disposing of paint cans, waste paint, and cleaning solvents.

Check with your local authority waste disposal department about correct, responsible procedures.

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